Ruthless historical events are the main reason why we have only the remnants of what was once an important medieval fortress located on the Mrsinj hill near Korenica.
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The Medieval Fortress of Mrsinj
Although there is not enough preserved historical material for a detailed account of the fate of Mrsinj, there is still enough to give us an interesting framework of its history and of the turbulent times during which it proudly stood on the rocky cliff of the Mrsinj hill.
Old Towns of Lika, Krbava and Gacka
Written records about Lika, Krbava and Gacka lead us back to the mid-10th century, when they were mentioned in an official document by the Byzantine emperor Constantine Porphyrogenitus (Kruhek and Horvat, 2009, p. 243). At that time the head of the local administration was already a župan (county prefect), which is confirmed by the name of the Krbava župan Desimir, carved in the famous Baška Tablet in the year 1100 (Kruhek and Horvat, 2009, p. 249).
The present-day remains of the old towns of Lika, Krbava and Gacka represent only the remnants of the remnants of fortresses that were built during the Middle Ages and later. These structures were either naturally fortified locations or fortresses that began to be built in these areas after the invasion and devastation caused by the Tatars in 1242, continuing until the end of the Middle Ages. They were primarily constructed by individuals who had managed to acquire sufficient financial power to gain control over land and the people living on it (Kruhek and Horvat, 2009, p. 250).
Although written sources confirm the existence of settlements and fortresses in Lika and Krbava in the 11th century, archaeological remains push this chronological boundary even further back.
Croatian medieval fortresses and settlements in the areas of Lika and Krbava were often established at locations of earlier fortified sites. In this case those sites were used by the Romans, who in turn had occupied positions previously fortified by the Illyrians (the Yapodes). These were generally the same strategic locations from which the movement of people could be effectively monitored, and near which roads were also built during the Roman period. In the early period, the Croats of Lika, Krbava and Gacka were organized through kinship ties into several noble families and lived together on hereditary noble land (“nasljedna plemenšćina”). They built two types of fortifications: some were constructed to protect their settlements, while others were so-called “tribal fortresses” that defended the territory of an entire county (župa). These included the fortresses of Krbava, Kurjak, Mrsinj, Lapac and Komić (Kruhek and Horvat, 2009, p. 248). In Croatian historical sources, the word pleme (tribe) is used to denote a noble lineage (Karbić, 1998, p. 80).
Closely interconnected and well-organized communities had shared access to land and its resources. Everyone participated in agricultural and pastoral activities, primarily to meet basic living needs. However, after the Tatar invasion in the 13th century, the first major changes occurred. In addition to destroying everything in the lowlands and outside the safety of fortress walls, the Tatars’ invasion also coincided with the growing influence of the central Hungarian-Croatian authority over life in Lika and Krbava. Within the noble communities of Lika, more prominent representatives began to emerge: in Krbava the Kurjaković family of Krbava, and in Lika the Mogorović family, lords of the town of Počitelj, who became the new feudal lords of the land - marking the first stratification of society (Kruhek and Horvat, 2009, p. 248).
The period of recovery after the Tatar invasion was also the time when individuals began trading surplus goods. Alongside traditional agriculture and livestock breeding, trade, craft production and the organization of fairs also developed. Early Croatian medieval settlements began to grow more rapidly, the population increased, and new members of the medieval social order appeared - the knightly and royal non-hereditary nobility (this nobility arose through royal grants rather than lineage). They represented and protected the interests of royal authority in what had previously been territorially and socially quite autonomous regions of Lika and Krbava. In return for their service they received titles and the right to land, which then became their feudal property. As a result, the remaining members of the old Lika communities became part of the commoner or peasant estate (Kruhek and Horvat, 2009, p. 248).
While agriculture and livestock breeding remained the responsibility of the common people/peasants, for the new nobility - primarily oriented toward military service - the existing fortresses were expanded or entirely new fortifications were built, stronger and more complex. Among the most prominent were Udbina, Komić, Podlapac and the old Mrsinj, as well as the somewhat different fortification of the settlement of Korenica (Kruhek and Horvat, 2009, p. 248).
The Diocese of Krbava
According to a copy of the founding charter from Split, the Diocese of Krbava consisted of the medieval “župas (counties) of Krbava, Bužane, Novigrad (present-day Todorovo in Bosnia), Drežnik, Plas (Plaški), Modruš and Vinodol.” The seat of the diocese was located in Krbava, where the remains of a medieval cathedral can still be found today. There were assumptions that the diocesan seat may have been located in Mrsinj, but there is no firm historical evidence to support this claim, although according to Bogović there is a possibility that Mrsinj held this role for a certain period after the Tatar invasion, since everything in the lowlands of Krbava had been destroyed and devastated (Bogović, 2016, pp. 42–43).
The establishment of the diocese is significant for several reasons. The very year of its “foundation – 1185 – confirms” that the old county settlement was already more organized than the local and royal authorities of the time. The firmly structured hierarchy of local parish priests connected to the central church authority, together with the church organization, the autonomy of Lika and Krbava and the influence they possessed at that time, led to the decision of “the Synod of Split in 1185” to establish a new diocese. This was of particular importance for the further development of Krbava and Lika (Kruhek and Horvat, 2009, p. 250).
The construction of the episcopal centre in Krbava and its cathedral, along with the new church organization and authority, played a significant role in the new social and economic positioning of Lika and Krbava. Although comprehensive archaeological research of medieval sacral architecture in Lika and Krbava has still not been carried out, the large number of small medieval sacred remains in this area suggests that church life and organization at that time had a major influence on the overall life of Krbava and Lika, including their legal and cultural life (Kruhek and Horvat, 2009, p. 250).
Remains of the Fortress of Mrsinj
Scientists claim that the fortress built on the massive cliff of Mount Mrsinj at an altitude of 1,097 meters above sea level was not constructed all at once, but rather expanded and upgraded over a longer period of time. With its isolated position on a steep rocky cliff and a ground plan that followed the edges of the rock, Mrsinj represented a typical medieval defensive fortress.
Although archaeological finds and the position of the fortress suggest that Mrsinj was one of the early medieval fortresses of the Krbava county (župa), the existing written records date only from the period of the developed feudal society of Krbava. Unfortunately, very little remains today of what was once a rather robust structure. The surviving sections of the walls indicate very high-quality construction using perfectly cut square stone blocks. Scientists have determined that they were built in “the Romanesque style of construction dating from the late 13th or early 14th century, that is, after the Tatar invasion of 1242”, when everything in the lowlands and outside protected walls had been destroyed (Kruhek and Horvat, 2009, pp. 272–275).
At the most exposed and therefore best-protected part of the fortress, it is assumed that there was a wooden bridge used to cross above a dug defensive ditch. Nearby, the remains of thick, finely cut stone walls are still visible, which are believed to be the possible remains of a square “defensive tower.” What is certain from existing historical records is that the solid fortress of Mrsinj was one of the more important strongholds of the Krbava county. However, there is no evidence that it developed into a larger settlement or that it served as the seat of a bishop or a bishop’s court (Kruhek and Horvat, 2009, pp. 272–275).
In historical records Mrsinj is primarily mentioned as a fortress (castrum) which, due to its important strategic position, became the seat of Croatian noble leaders, among them the feudal lords of Krbava – the princes of the Kurjaković family of Krbava. A branch of this family occupied Mrsinj and received the associated designation Kurjakovići of Mrsinj (Kruhek and Horvat, 2009, pp. 272–275).
Society developed and life proceeded relatively peacefully until the end of the 15th century, when everything began to change with the advance of the Ottomans and the fall of Lika. Mrsinj also fell and was occupied by Turkish guards. However, historical sources indicate that they did not remain there long. Whether because of the fortress’s position or for some other reason, the Turks left Mrsinj and moved their guards to the fortress of Bunić and to Korenica, which was also fortified. At that time the Ottomans began, more or less forcibly, to settle Vlachs there who had been brought from already occupied parts of the Empire. All indications suggest that Mrsinj was left to the ravages of time, as it is no longer mentioned in historical documents after that period (Kruhek and Horvat, 2009, pp. 272–275).
“Strong Mrsinj,” as Bishop Bogović described it in his work (Bogović, 2016, pp. 42–43), strong and beautifully built from precisely cut stone blocks and with a square tower, impressively dominated the surrounding area, anchored to the rugged cliff of Mrsinj. For centuries it guarded the region and withstood attacks – from the Tatars to the Ottomans – and its role was primarily defensive. It is a pity that it has not been preserved, as it could have told many fascinating stories to new generations up to the present day.
Fortresses – especially fortified towns adapted for family life – were highly sought-after “commodities” in the Middle Ages. They were occupied, seized, and then granted to deserving individuals. By taking control of fortified towns, rulers also gained authority over the surrounding territory and the people who lived on that land. These were rather harsh times, and for that reason there is a short historical story that illustrates this cruelty very well. The only question is whether that cruelty remained a part of history – or whether it is still present today.
The Zrinski and the Frankopan Families
The noble families of the Frankopans and the Zrinskis possessed numerous fortresses and estates, some of which were located in the area of our present-day tourist destination. The Frankopans, for example, were the owners of the historic town of Bihać for a long period of time, and the following is a brief note about the end of their story.
Under the pressure of increasingly brutal Ottoman incursions, poor relations with Hungary, heavy military defeats and the loss of many lives, the Croatian Parliament decided at the end of 1526 to align with Austria and confirmed the election of Ferdinand I of the Habsburg dynasty as king. He was crowned on 1 January 1527 in Cetin (Macan, 1992, p. 123). However, hardly any decision made under such severe threats and pressures could have been good, as confirmed by the fate of these two great families of Croatian history.
The Habsburgs originated from the town of Habichtsburg in the canton of Aargau in Swabia (today part of the German-speaking area of Switzerland). Of modest origins, this family, with a strong appetite for the possessions and territories of others, managed to become hereditary rulers of the Holy Roman Empire and the dominant political family controlling the largest empire in Europe during the Renaissance. The politics of territorial pretension that characterized this family were marked by numerous inheritance agreements, succession treaties and other contracts, cunning negotiations and acquisitions of various estates throughout Europe, dubious peace agreements, and the imposition of their family members for the throne or through a marriage of convenience (aka a political marriage) (Encyclopedia.com, 2018).
Through such policies and tactics they came to rule territories stretching from Austria and Germany, Bohemia, Croatia and Hungary all the way to Spain, Rome, Naples, Sicily and overseas colonies – most often by exploiting difficult geopolitical situations, wartime dangers and by bribing powerful nobles in order to achieve their goals (Encyclopedia.com, 2018). Everything that followed confirmed that they did not treat the other signatories of their agreements as equal or worthy partners.
Thus Leopold I of Habsburg (1640–1705), King of Croatia and Hungary from 1657 and Holy Roman Emperor from 1658, was responsible, among other things, for the downfall of two of the most powerful families in Croatian history. The way this was carried out can also be seen in events following the last major Ottoman advance in Europe, when large parts of Croatia –including Lika and Krbava – were liberated in 1689. Taking advantage of victories in the anti-Ottoman war from 1683 to 1699, and the assistance they had provided in liberating Hungarian and Croatian lands, the Habsburgs easily gained the favor of Croatian and Hungarian nobles. In return, these nobles recognized the hereditary right of the Habsburgs to the Croatian-Hungarian throne according to the principle of male primogeniture. They also agreed to abolish Article 31 of the Golden Bull of 1222, which had provided a legal basis for rebellion against a ruler who violated the constitutional rights of the estates (Macan, 1992, pp. 222–225). What this meant in practice is illustrated by the brutal events of 1664 and 1671.
After the defeat of the Ottomans at Saint Gotthard in 1664, Leopold I concluded the scandalous Peace of Vasvár, which allowed the Ottomans to retain all territories they had conquered prior to that final military conflict. Not only did this agreement cause great harm to Croatia and Hungary, but it also prevented them from seeking justice through legal means.
At a time when the centralizing and Germanizing ambitions of the Habsburgs were increasingly undermining the political position of the Croatian and Hungarian nobility, the only remaining option was for Croatian and Hungarian leaders to unite and assert their rights through rebellion. In Croatia the uprising was led by Ban Nikola Zrinski, while in Hungary it was led by Palatine Ferenc Wesselényi. After the tragic death of Nikola Zrinski, he was succeeded by his younger brother and new Croatian ban, Petar Zrinski (Macan, 1992, pp. 215–221).
The irony is striking. Nikola’s ancestor and namesake, the famous ban, statesman and military commander, had died heroically in 1566 defending the strategically vital fortress of Szigetvár against a massive Ottoman army led by Suleiman I, known as the Magnificent, during the second Ottoman campaign against Vienna. Before the fortress finally fell, Zrinski and his remaining soldiers bravely broke out of Szigetvár and died in direct combat. Their resolute defense saved Croatia, Hungary and Austria from falling under Ottoman rule. The Ottoman army also suffered heavy losses during the long siege, and Suleiman the Magnificent himself died of illness in his tent. Soon afterward the Grand Vizier Mehmed Pasha Sokolović halted further Ottoman advances (Macan, 1992, pp. 215–221). A century later, the descendants of the famous ban were fighting the Habsburgs for the rights of Croatia. Unfortunately, the chaos of that era, dishonorable negotiations, bargaining, and differing ideas about how to conduct the conspiracy eventually led to betrayal from within their own ranks.
In 1670, Emperor Leopold I deceitfully invited the Croatian noblemans Zrinski and Frankopan to Vienna under the pretext of reconciliation. Upon their arrival they were immediately arrested and imprisoned in one of the towers of the notorious prison in Wiener Neustadt (Macan, 1992, pp. 215–221).
After nearly a year of investigation, Petar Zrinski and Fran Krsto Frankopan were sentenced to a terrible death: the cutting off of the right hand followed by beheading, for insulting the king and betraying the state. The same dreadful fate befell the Styrian nobleman Erasmus Tattenbach and the judge Franjo Nádasdy, causing widespread outrage in Croatia and Hungary and throughout Europe. On 30 April 1671 all the city gates of Wiener Neustadt were closed, and the execution site was surrounded by armed troops (Macan, 1992, pp. 215–221).
The two noblemen and their families were stripped of their nobility, and their estates were confiscated by the state. Soon afterward the central authority in Vienna completely plundered and destroyed the two most illustrious families in Croatian history. In 1672 the confiscated property of the two noble families was estimated at nearly 1,500,000 forints. According to Adamček, this enormous value was difficult to compare with the prices of the time, and it is certain that this wealth was the main reason for the execution and destruction of the Zrinski and Frankopan families, since the king himself now acquired it. By seizing their estates – which stretched from western Hungary and the Mura River to the Adriatic Sea and the Bakar coastal region – he was able to settle his accumulated debts and financial obligations to soldiers. Inventories of the confiscated property also indicate that many of the stolen items were of great importance for Croatian culture (Adamček, 1972, pp. 42–43).
The Zrinski and Frankopan families also played a major role in the affirmation of the Croatian language. Croatian was used on their numerous estates and in all business affairs – especially in their extensive trade networks – as well as in their large administrative systems. With the confiscation of their property, the Croatian language was pushed out of administrative use (Adamček, 1972, p. 26). The Ozalj cultural circle of the Zrinski and Frankopan families disappeared before it could fully encourage and spread the written Croatian language among the population.
Take a Walk to Mrsinj
We have endured, and today we should advocate for peace, development and, and responsible care for the well-being of all people and nature. Therefore, we invite you to take a pleasant walk to the remains of old Mrsinj. Two trails lead to it: the southern trail from the direction of Korenica is a little longer but offers a comfortable ascent throughout the year, while the northern trail from the small village of Vrelo is more challenging and steeper.
The trail is maintained by the Mountaineering Association Mrsinj from Korenica, so it is well marked and suitable for hiking. When you reach the top, let your imagination run free – envisioning what the old Mrsinj once looked like.
Together for Nature
- explore the countryside and the mountain on foot, bike, horse - give your car a rest and help reduce car emissions
- take care to place all recyclable items in proper receptacles - recycle
- please take litter with you - leave no trace
- bring reusable water bottles - avoid plastic.
- join our Green Mission!
Explore Local represents a part of our natural and cultural heritage; for a fuller overview of the tangible and intangible heritage, see our Interactive Map under Experiences and Events and Activities Calendar with many suggestions for your itinerary.
References
1. Adamček, J. (1972). Zrinsko-frankopanski posjedi u XVII. stoljeću. Radovi Zavoda za hrvatsku povijest Filozofskoga fakulteta Sveučilišta u Zagrebu, 2 (1), 26-43 ˃https://hrcak.srce.hr/57587˂
2. Bogović, M. ( 2016). Moji predšasnici biskupi - u senju, otočcu, krbavi, modrušu, vinodolu i rijeci. Senj. zb. 42-43, 5-198 (2015-16.). ˃https://hrcak.srce.hr/file/249695˂
3. Encyclopedia.com. (2018.). Habsburg Dynasty. Renaissance: An Encyclopedia for Students. ˃https://www.encyclopedia.com/humanities/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/habsburg-dynasty˂
4. Karbić, D. (1998). Hrvatski plemićki rod i običajno pravo. Pokušaj analize. Zbornik Odsjeka za povijesne znanosti Zavoda za povijesne i društvene znanosti Hrvatske akademije znanosti i umjetnosti, Zagreb, 80
5. Kruhek, M. and Horvat, Z. (2009.). Srednjovjekovne hrvatske župe Lika i Krbava (Stari gradovi Krbave). Institut društvenih znanosti Ivo Pilar, str. 243-275. ˃ https://www.pilar.hr/wp-content/images/stories/dokumenti/lika/lika_1_mail_r_239.pdf˂
6. Macan, T. (1992.). Povijest hrvatskog naroda. Nakladni zavod Matice hrvatske - Školska knjiga, Zagreb, 123-225.
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